downloads
A while back I wrote a monthly column for Climber Magazine. It covered all things technical like ropework and gear wizardry, plus understanding rock types and progressing through the grades. They are available here as free pdf’s so you can brush up on those rusty skills while planning your next climbing adventure!
Rock Types
A flavour of the many varied rock types we play on, including how they are formed, what they’re like to climb on and the type of gear that works best.
Slate
Fine grained and bafflingly smooth – a unique climbing experience.
Quartzite
The rock type of Gogarth and Arapiles – world class – enough said.
Limestone
Gritstone
Don’t let grit be your achilles heel, improve your technique now.
Rhyolite
Mountain rock par excellence, with all the vagaries of quality that entails.
Dolerite
Subtle and technical, dolerite requires commitment and finesse.
Granite
The connoisseur’s rock type; high friction and beautiful designs.
Weird Stuff
A round-up of the odd stuff we climb on like conglomerate potato fields.
Grade Tour
Ever wondered what it’s like to climb the next grade? Well now you can find out with this tour from V.Diff to E3. Get a taste for life at that grade plus a close-up look at a profiled route.
V Diff
on The Arete, Hen Cloud, Staffordshire; a compelling and intimidating line with a committing crux.
HVS
on Rubberneck, Third Cloud, Five Clouds, The Roaches, Staffordshire; a small route that packs it in so don’t expect to breeze it.
Severe
on Red Wall, Porth Clais, North Pembroke; obvious moves all with good gear makes this a delight.
E1
on Snozwanger, Mowing Ward, Pembroke; the position is superb, the climbing delightful.
Hard Severe HS
on Bollard Edge, Black Forest, near the Roaches, Staffordshire is worth seeking out, a quiet gem.
E2
on Vector, Bwlch y Moch, Tremadog, North Wales is every bit the classic you’re expecting.
Very Severe VS
on Sea Groove, White Tower, near Mother Carey’s Kitchen, Pembroke; graceful climbing in a dramatic setting.
E3
on Wraith, Mother Carey’s Kitchen, Pembroke; a big steep pitch that keeps on going – excellent.
Essential Technical Stuff
These articles have a technical flavour and tackle some of the more baffling bits of climbing.
Better Leader
how to be a more considerate and safer leader.
Trad Climbing (part 2)
advanced gear tips and trade secrets at your disposal.
Sea Cliffs
a close look at sea cliffs and how to survive them.
Sport Climbing (part 1)
belaying tips and what to do at the lower-off.
Trad Climbing (part 3)
belay refresher and ropework systems made clear.
Multi-pitch
staying safe and being efficient on longer climbs.
Sport Climbing (part 2)
advanced techniques and how to strip the route.
Trad Climbing (part 4)
learn all about dynamic belaying for a softer fall.
Route Finding
with a journey across one of Britain’s finest routes A Dream of White Horses.
Trad Climbing (part 1)
all you’ve ever wanted to know about basic trad gear.
DWS
here it is, the essential guide to deep water soloing.